Friday, February 3, 2012

Guide Horses

Nirvana has had to take a back seat to two large non-horsy projects, the second of which is nearly done.  So mostly because it's interesting, and partly to prove that I do occasionally finish something, here's my guide horse, Salaiset. 
 "Salaiset" apparently is what the tv show The X-Files was called in Finnish, and means "secret files".  Since the action figure used here is Agent Mulder, it seemed an appropriate name.  Salaiset is a fairly simple custom (nothing moved) with a new mane and tail, an opened mouth, added fat, and carved ears, then pasteled to bay with some acrylic details.  She's a Stablemate masquerading as a small Classic-scale miniature horse.

Handle made from translucent Sculpey and wire.
 Small miniature horses can be used like dogs to guide the blind.  They have some advantages over dogs, including that they do not chase cats or squirrels, have better peripheral vision, and they live much longer.  The average working life of a guide dog is 7 years; for a horse it may be 20 years or more.  The downside is that the horses must be small and they take longer to train.  The harness is much the same as a dog's, with a rigid handle, and features a halter with a short lead rope with clips on both ends instead of a leash.  Some guide horses wear modified children's sneakers to give them better traction on slick indoor floors.
To help "force the scale", Salaiset's halter and harness are intentionally made chunkier than normal Stablemate scale.  This helps gives the effect that it is a small horse in a larger world.  Real miniature horse stock halters (at least the ones I've seen) are often made almost the same width as those for a full-size horse, and lead ropes are not scaled down either.  So, the lead rope clips here are huge, as is the working halter buckle. For comparison, Petrelli is showing off a better scaled halter, made with very thinly skived and split leather.  Normally I use bead wire for Stablemate buckles (which is too delicate for working buckles) but on Salaiset's halter I used the same gauge as the halter rings.

To learn more about guide horses, you can visit the Guide Horse Foundation's website here: http://www.guidehorse.org/ or read about training a guide horse named Panda at http://www.theclickercenter.com/ThePandaProject.html

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Carriage Repair

Several years ago, I made this cart.  I no longer have the reference, but it was patterned after a sturdy antique vehicle that had been rebuilt and was for sale (and therefore had lots of pictures online).  I never quite finished it - the hand rails and seat cushions were never glued in, and I hadn't attached the wheels as I originally intended to paint them.
I took a few photo show pictures, and set it aside.  Today I pulled it out to finish, so I could box it up and put it away.  And then, I remembered why I hadn't finished it.
See that spot lit by the sun on the left?  It's supposed to be attached.
The springs had popped loose.  Pushing them in meant that the brass strips that hold the slats onto the floor of the cart (which attach under the seat) didn't fit.  I had to re-bend the springs and then tack down the brass strips, which I hadn't done.  It was literally a 4-handed job: one hand to hold the pliers holding  the tack (the cut-off head of a pin), one to hold the...thing...(it's a long metal stick so you can hammer in a small place, not sure what it's called), one to hold the hammer, and one to hold the upside down carriage still.  Luckily, my dad helped out.
Much cheaper than buying dollhouse nails.
Upper left corner...that little silver dot was problem #2!
Fixing that made two of the floor slats pop loose, then re-fastening a few other parts I had left holes for but not pinned caused the wood to crack.  In the end, though, it didn't need repainting, which is why I had left things unattached.  But on to the fun stuff!
The competition number is made from a small plastic bag.  If you can find a stiff cellophane one, you can carefully heat-seal the plastic with a heated butter knife.  Be sure to use one that you won't use for food again; a candle will heat the edge enough.  The number card was made on the computer.  The top edge is just folded paper, and the number is attached by handmade wire hooks strung through two holes in the bottom of the trunk.
The trunk opens using dollhouse hinges, and I'd like to make a full spares kit to go in it.  The cart was painted with model car spray paint - the original was also painted with automotive paint in this color.
 The cart is made mainly of basswood, which is very soft but comes in pre-cut strips from the craft store.  The only power tool I used was a power table sander (and that wasn't even necessary).  Basswood has less grain than balsa, and I think it's a little denser.  Hardwood would have been better, but there's no way I could cut even slats by hand.  Three brass strips hold the slats together - they were sanded rough so that the glue would stick.  A few key places are attached with dollhouse nails (that came with the hinges) which are then bent over on the inside if they stuck out.  The singletree under the curved brace swivels and the "bolt" is a cut-off nail.
The dash is leather, folded in half with short loops glued inside for the frame.  The cushions are two layers of craft foam, covered with black skiver leather.  Unfortunately I misplaced the back cushion, but you can see the strips of brass tacked on with pins.  The holes in the brass strips were made by carefully hammering a small nail in just far enough to create a hole. The edges were then hammered flat.  The hand rails, the dash frame, and the tug pulls were made of hollow aluminum tubing from a hobby shop.  This must be bent carefully and slowly, or else it will collapse or break off, but it wasn't too hard.  The ends of the tubes were hammered flat so that they could be pinned (for the tugs) or fit into grooves and glued (for the arm rests).  The dash frame was left round and pins the seat brace to the top of the foot area.  The springs were made of a thicker wire - lead-free solder?  and flattened on the ends (which were bent around an eye bolt on the bottom, and nailed to the seat on top), and in the center, where they were wired together into a curvy X shape.
 What you may or may not be able to see here is the joint in the shafts.  It is a faint line between the dash and the singletree ring. The good thing about using basswood or balsa is that it is easy to bend.  The hard part is a multi-directional bend, so each shaft is made in two parts and then joined.  Draw the curve you need on a piece of scrap wood (such as a 2x4) and hammer long sturdy nails along that line so that they stick up about 2 inches.  Simmer the strips of wood one at a time in a pot of water until they're soft enough to bend, then ease them around the nails.  Clamp in place (little spring clips will work) until dry.  Repeat until the piece is as thick as you want, spreading wood glue liberally between layers.  These shafts were 3 or 4 layers of 1/8" thick strips.  Sand smooth.  The two parts were either notched and glued or pinned with a nail with the head cut off.  These shafts are quite strong thanks to the glue but they can dent if you're not careful.  It is basswood, after all.
 The cart was made to fit the current Breyer doll's legs, so she can sit with her feet flat on the floor.  It is pony sized - specifically Fjord sized, though it also fits the Haflinger and Misty pretty well.  Please forgive the harness, it literally fell to pieces the last time I had it out.  I only used it for 10 years...
 
 I do have all the parts for a very fancy new harness with working tongue buckles, but I have to get the intended horse to a more finished state first.
Dear Breyer, please make another regular run Fjord.  I'm out of cheap bodies, but not ideas.
 The doll is a Breyer western doll with a new shirt, jacket, necklace (made of silver braid), hat, and a driving apron.  Her hands were painted black and the left is slit between the ring and middle fingers so she can hold the reins properly.
And here is the cart in it's finished (except for the missing cushion) state!  The hubcaps are silver brads, the type you fasten paper with.  The wheels are plastic, and unfortunately the store that carried them went out of business long ago.  The real cart was supposed to be incredibly comfortable to ride in, due to the springs, yet very sturdy.  It's nice enough for show pleasure driving, and sturdy enough for a pleasure marathon, a good all-around vehicle.  Kind of the equivalent of a Meadowbrook cart, but with some style.  And blue!

Edited to add: I've found the original reference.  The cart was called the Buckeye Easy Riding Cart and can be seen here: http://www.shadygrovetrainingcenter.com/carriages/newly_renovated_buckeye_cart_200.htm 

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Lazy Weekend...

Well, yesterday I intended to get on the computer only to print off some more reference photos for Nirvana, and ended up never getting around to actually doing anything with him.  Or printing the pictures.  So, in an attempt to make my procrastination productive, here's some photos from last fall.  I had the chance to visit the Minnesota State Fair, and I took a few pictures of a jumper class.  It seemed to be an adult class jump off, but I'm not sure as I missed the beginning.

Horse has just passed the timers to start the round.
 I have occasionally seen comments on model horse photo shows from judges about "jump is too close to fence".  Well, at this show there were three fences up against the arena wall.  Each of them was perpendicular to the wall.  You probably wouldn't want to do this with anything other than a solid wall, but feel free to use this as a reference next time you're running out of space for your photo setup.
 I wish I could remember which fences were # 1 and 2.  #1 may have been the dark green and white fence in the center.  3 is the green and white fan, 4 is the yellow, 5 I believe was the reddish "brick" one...
 #6 is the white picket fence, 7 and 8 are the brown with purple flower boxes along the far wall, and I don't remember how the numbering went after that.
 The blue and white jumps were a combination.
Action shot.  Unfortunately, this was the best one.

And on a slightly more random note, a week or two later, I saw this Amish buggy tied up across the street from a gas station in a small town.
You gotta get the boat to the river somehow!

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Nirvana: Part 3

This is Nirvana in his current state:
All of the epoxy fingerprints have been sanded off, and his neck has been sanded a bit.  He will need more sanding with a finer grit paper to define the muscles better.  His right front leg was straightened, hooves were filed down, and a peg added.  He can stand, even on this upholstered piano bench!

I used a heat gun (paint stripper) with a narrow funnel end to bend his leg.  The low heat setting worked fine.  I heated the bent area just above the knee, moving the heat gun around all sides until it would bend.  It was a weird place for the leg to be bent, but it seemed like the best way to fix the leg.  He does have a slight "noodle bone" now but it should be easily fixed with some epoxy.
Leg was bent slightly outward just above the knee.
Then, into a bucket of water to cool and set.
Make sure the bucket is big enough to actually submerge the moved area...

Then, I filed down his hooves to the correct shape.  I check them by setting the raised hooves flat against the edge of the table, as it's easier to see shape problems when they're "on the ground".
Just like the real thing.  Miniature farrier!
Before
After
His front hooves, however still need more work and I'll have to add epoxy to fix them.  But I decided to add the peg now anyway, so he can stand.  I may have to move it later, but I'm tired of him falling over.
 
 It's really easy.  First, drill a small hole with a pin drill.  These are cheap and available from the woodworking section of most craft/hobby stores.  It's basically like an X-acto blade handle with tiny drill bits.  If the hole is the same size as your plastic rod you won't need any glue.
 Then, insert a short section of plastic rod.  I got these from the local model train/hobby shop.  I used the blue 1/16" rod on Nirvana, as he doesn't need much support, and the narrow rod is inconspicuous.  If the rod was longer or holding more weight, I might go for the thicker rod.
 
 The larger 1/8" rod is what I use on custom Stablemate jumpers.  It does bend if it's a long piece such as the pegasus here, but for an average jumper it doesn't.  And with the right lighting, the clear rod just disappears.
Even though the rod is fluorescent blue (the model shop didn't have clear 1/16") it isn't very noticeable.  Now I just have to borrow a Dremel, and then I can finish his poor lame front feet in the next round of epoxy.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Nirvana: Part 2

I've finally gotten to the second side of Nirvana's neck.  I started the first side back in December....but anyhoo.  This side only took about 2 hours.  I'm sure it will need some more work, but hey, there's sort of muscles!  I'm following a technique from Don't Eat the Paint.  It's a little scary, as I've never resculpted a neck before, but her tutorial is really great.
Usually I use a hair dryer for a few minutes first.
 I like to set any epoxy next to a heat vent to cure overnight.  This one's in the bathroom - small room, stays nice and toasty, and no worries about damaging the linoleum.  The iron is holding him up, as he is once again unstable.  The weight of the neck is unbalancing him again.  I started to add more epoxy to his cannon bones because the real Nirvana has chunkier legs, but the epoxy was starting to cure so I had to leave it.  And I just remembered I will have to move his right foreleg a bit anyway.  Oh well.
Normal people would fix the crooked leg first...
I also tried making some ears.  I've never done this before, so we'll see how they look when they're done.  Again, this technique is from Don't Eat the Paint.
 As for epoxy, I much prefer Apoxie Sculpt.  Gapoxio is ok, but I really hated trying to sculpt wearing gloves.  I have tiny hands, and "one size fits all" gloves don't.
Both of these are at least 3 years old.  The Apoxie Sculpt part B is starting to dry out on top but still works fine.  No idea about the unopened Gapoxio.  And this is why I never buy the big tubs, I'm usually just resculpting hair on Stablemates.
Apoxie Sculpt is available here, and Gapoxio is available from Rio Rondo.

So Nirvana has a neck again.  In the morning I'll check to make sure the epoxy set, then start sanding.  And find the heat gun and a dremel, so I can fix his leg....

Saturday, January 7, 2012

New Projects for a New Year

Now that the holidays are over, hopefully I will have time to work on horsy projects again!  Here are a few upcoming projects I will be detailing on this blog - stay tuned for more!

First: finish Nirvana - customize and paint/pastel
Part of the reason for this blog is so I actually finish him.  Poor Brego has been under construction since 1999, and remains at the bottom of the list...

2012 Traditional Scale Projects:
- 1905 fire department harness (and pumper engine)  This is coming up next!
- Brekka - custom trotting Fjord
- Pleasure harness for Brekka
- pony size English saddle and bridle
My workspace on the coffee table.

2012 Stablemate Scale Projects:
- farm harness and forecart for G4 drafters
- 4 in hand circus parade harness and copy of Ringling Bell Wagon for G3 Belgians
- western saddle and bridle
- Fjord team, work harnesses, and hayride wagon
- Tandem harness
Checking the scale of tires for the forecart and farm wagon!  Also, a half-finished Fjord.

2012 Other Projects/Topics
- sleigh bells
- scenery
- photo showing

Other Future Projects - these are all on "the want list" of things to do, subject to time and money.  If they happen, I'll post the progress here:
Trad Scale:
- pony size Albany cutter - this will include a tutorial on bending wood
- marathon brollar harness, cart, and water hazard
- forest trail scene base
- pony collar harness and wagon
- customize Stormy to Fjord foal, possibly a custom Alborozo

Classic Scale
- pony harness and cart
- working western saddle and bridle
- possible custom Gretel - silver bay, or Fjord?

Stablemate Scale
- racing sulky sleigh and harness
- sleigh or cutter
- gig or cart
- Fire harness and engine
- English saddle and bridle
- 1905 street scene with shops, street lamps, and Macadam road
- ramshackle barn
- Possible customs: chestnut Friesian, G3 Andalusian to mini Alborozo, jumper to diving horse, G2 and G3 ponies to Fjords, G4 trotting horse with new mane and tail to fit my gig, and several others.

So, those are a few projects I have in mind!  I hope they will be entertaining at least, and maybe even some useful tips for you.  Thanks and stay tuned for more!

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Nirvana - Day One

My first project will be something a little out of the ordinary for me.  This is actually only my second time repositioning a Traditional scale model (and the first one is still unfinished).  Most of my customs are Stablemates, and honestly I'm better at tack making most of the time.  So Nirvana is a bit of an experiment.  He will be a portrait horse, so let's talk about the real Nirvana.

Nirvana is a trail horse at a camp I used to work at.  He is 23 years old, and is a BLM mustang from Nevada, according to his freeze brand.  (see THIS LINK for a really nice explanation of how to read a freeze brand).  Apparently, he came directly from the range to camp and was trained at camp by a wrangler in the early ‘90s.  Like all horses, he has his quirks but he’s one of my favorites.


I chose Breyer’s John Henry mold to customize as it already looks a lot like Nirvana.  This mold was originally intended to portray an old Thoroughbred, so he’ll need some tweaks to become a mustang and some repairs - the mold has odd hooves, and this particular model has a bent leg and doesn’t stand well.  He will get a new mane and tail, and a new, lowered neck, among other things.


I’ve been reading a great blog called Don’t Eat The Paint, and I’m going to try her neck sculpting technique for the first time.  So it’s off with his head!

Using a hacksaw and an assortment of files and rasps (because the Dremel is broken), I sawed off the tail, neck, ears, and his right eye (it was uneven…I may regret this later) and filed down the nostrils, mold mark, and rounded off any edges.
Also, with a little sanding on the bottom of the hooves, and no neck, this body stands quite nicely...for now.
 The hardest part of this step was actually gluing the armature wire into the body, because the only thing super glue ever glues instantly is skin.  After much messy dripping, and much dumping of baking soda everywhere, it stuck.  The wire attaches inside his withers and the top of his head.
An odd, flat neck is better than no neck, right?
 Then I stuck a few layers of masking tape over the armature wire, drew the shape of the neck, and cut it down to size.  Continuing to follow directions, I spread on an entire bottle of super glue, and some baking soda to stabilize it.  (The chemical reaction of liquid super glue and baking soda makes a hard, resin-like material.)

Next time, the scary part: sculpting the neck.  I'm aiming for 2-3 posts per week to start with, so part two should be up soon!